Luvocom-News

Alternatives to silicones and products of petrochemical origin

Some global trends have now become essential requirements even in the cosmetic market.  We see more and more companies engaged in the search for ecological, sustainable and environmentally friendly products.

However, some limitations remain. Among them, there is a requirement to replace some valued ingredients, such as silicones and petrochemical products do not influence negatively the texture and performance of the finished product.

A question then arises on how we can be sure that, by using alternative raw materials, the consumer does not perceive any difference in terms of sensory profile and effectiveness?

To answer this question, a team of experts from Stéarinerie Dubois, together with formulators and university researchers, has started, since 2010, a complete study of their esters and main emollients on the market.

This joint effort has allowed the collection of a large number of data through instrumental methods, such as analysis of consistency, sensoriality and performance.  Results have therefore led to a complete sensory profile mapping of about 150 esters and 15 benchmark raw materials including silicones, vegetable oils and other petroleum derivatives.

Furthermore, thanks to the use of statistical tools such as proximity matrices, it was possible to identify those esters, which sensorial and physio-chemical properties correspond the most to those of the products which, eco-sustainable trends in the market push for a replacement.

Therefore, here is the result of this scientific and sensorial approach:

Four alternatives, 100% biodegradable, characterized by a high naturalness index and greater overlap in sensory terms with:

  • CICLOPENTASILOSSANO
  • DIMETICONE 10 cSt
  • ISO HEXADECAN
  • LIQUID PARFIN

 
 
DUB OE HP RSPO MB - ALTERNATIVE TO CYCLOPENTASILOXANE
INCI: Ethyl Oleate

Characterized by a high spreadability (1053 mm2 / 10 min)
Compatible with vegetable oils, liquid paraffin, silicones and esters
Soluble in ethanol
Helps to solubilize and incorporate lipophilic active ingredients, sun oils and silicones DUB OE HP increases hydration compared to D5 (+ 13% after 2h; in vivo test)

Applications:

  • Skin care (emulsions, micro-emulsions, body oils)
  • Sun care (sun oils, sun creams and lotions)
  • Make-up (foundation, lipsticks and mascara)

Certifications:

  • ECOCERT / COSMOS / US: 1
  • CHINA COMPLIANT (IECIC)
  • 100% BIODEGRADABLE - Easily biodegradable according to OECD 301F Standard: 70% after 10 days


DUB SOGREEN RSPO MB - ALTERNATIVE TO LOW VISCOSITY DIMETICONE
INCI: Ethyl Olivate (and) Triheptanoin
Alternative to Dimethicone 10cSt
Sensory similar to Dimethicone: high spreadability; dry texture, protective and moisturizing effect
Compatible with vegetable oils, ethanol, silicones and esters
Thanks to the presence of a greater polar component, DUB SOGREEN confers greater stability to O / W emulsions compared to Dimethicone

Applications:

  • Skincare (emulsions, body oils)
  • Make-up (foundation and lipsticks)

Certifications:

  • ECOCERT / COSMOS, WE: 1
  • CHINA COMPLIANT (IECIC)
  • 100% BIODEGRADABLE  

DUB LAHE RSPO MB - ALTERNATIVE TO ISOHEXADECAN
INCI: Hexyl Laurate
Sensory similar to Isohexadecane in terms of lightness, softness, spreadability, shine and dry touch
Unlike Isohexadecane, DUB LAHE is not classified and has no risk phrases
Possible replacement of Isohexadecane in proportion 1: 1

Applications:

  • Hair care (shampoo and conditioner)
  • Skincare (make-up remover)
  • Make-up (foundation and lipsticks)

Certifications:

  • US: 0.64
  • CHINA COMPLIANT (IECIC)
  • 100% BIODEGRADABLE

DUB TOGEE RSPO MB - ALTERNATIVE TO LIQUID PARAFFIN
INCI: Triheptanoin (and) Hexyl Laurate (and) Ethylhexyl Polyhydroxystearate
Sensory profile similar to liquid paraffin
Unlike liquid paraffin, DUB TOGEE leaves a light and non-greasy protective film and has a high percentage of naturalness, US: 0.89

Applications:

  • Skincare (A / O emulsion, massage oils, ointments)
  • Make-up (lipsticks, foundation and mascara)

Certifications:

  • US: 0.89
  • CHINA COMPLIANT (IECIC)
  • 100% BIODEGRADABLE


Find out more at the link Alternative to petrochemicals - article